On how we produced 50 kilos of olive oil with Lima’s help

Near the end of our Asian trip, when we were already saturated with the local food, I started missing bread, cheese and olives. The strong craving for olives could not be satisfied in the Laotian countryside! As it happens, it became the seed of our next journey. Even though the yearning lost its power somewhere along the way, we were excited to spend the winter in Greece, especially because of the opportunity to see the olive harvest. Our knowledge on the subject was nonexistent and the first … Read more On how we produced 50 kilos of olive oil with Lima’s help

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I want to workaway, or about how we helped out at Lefkada

Have you already heard about sites like WWOOF, Workaway or Helpex? We’ve been planning to use one of these for a long time and I can’t tell why we managed to do it only recently. It’s all based on the idea of cultural exchange, connecting people who need helpers with travellers willing to do some work. At the same time we can have an opportunity to learn more about the country we’re visting, learn the language and immerse ourselves in the local way of living. In exchange … Read more I want to workaway, or about how we helped out at Lefkada

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Rock, water, forest, light

Lefkada – bit rugged, wild, mountainous beauty. Its strengths aren’t historical sites or spotless villages but simple, pure, raw material – rock, water, forest, light. Over the month we’ve spent there, these never failed to impress: quintessential Greek blue, melting with liquid gold view of rough mainland mountains colored cool shades of violet, pink and grey by the sun setting on the other side of the island sight of islands and islets dotting the perspective after a bike or a car climb, a reward further ranges … Read more Rock, water, forest, light

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All is well in Albania

Ahh, Albania… We’ve been here before, eight years ago, and much has since changed for the better. This time around, having an idea what the country is about, we decide to take in the best — the awesome Alps of the north and the sun of far south. We want to be clever and take the train from Shkodra via Durres to Vlore. Unfortunately, it’s not that simple because departure times are one of the things that did not change — by noon public transportation … Read more All is well in Albania

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From Kosovo to Albania — a wonderful bike route and a cruise over the Komani lake

“-Ania! Take the picture of the mountains! -Why? These aren’t even hills! -Look higher, above the clouds!”   We go to Kosovar Peje just because we were enchanted by a googled picture: the old town on background of impressive snowy moutain peaks. To confirm our decision, Lonely Planet mentioned something about a Saturday Cheese Market. However, we asked at least 5 people about the market and could not find it, all the while the stunning mountains were thoroughly covered with clouds. Still, we maybe got something better out … Read more From Kosovo to Albania — a wonderful bike route and a cruise over the Komani lake

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Be my guest

We’re moving fast, in fluorescent vests, because it’s already dark. Occasional lightnings pierce the night skies but the thunders are well delayed, so we hope to get there dry. We finally find the right address and I make the call. A young man appears promptly: “Put the bikes where you will and come in, there’ll be food soon.” We enter the kitchen, which is separate from the rest of the house, straight from the yard. It’s warm inside and it smells of food. The father … Read more Be my guest

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Cooking with Branko: Gibanica

We visited our friend Branko in Kovin, his home town, located some 50 km from Belgrade. It’s not big and can’t be considered a tourist attraction but Eurovelo track cuts through it and the Danube, flowing nearby, can offer some spectacular views. Some kilometers out of town there’s a cyclist guesthouse, the only one in Serbia, a rare bird in general. We had a chat with the friendly owners and got a couple shots of the sun setting over the river. Branko was patient while answering … Read more Cooking with Branko: Gibanica

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Belgrade: retro style

When writing and taking photos I often think about how every portrayal is subjective and filtered by personal experience, and how pointless it is to take recommendations from others. The chaos that is Belgrade makes me feel this ever so strongly, while I’m taking in its many facets and moods. We enter it from Zemun, rather attractive with its old, crumbling apartment houses. Then we proceed to New Belgrade, which is a tad ugly, a more expansive version of Warsaw’s Ursynów — another bleak district of blocks of flats. The next afternoon, in … Read more Belgrade: retro style

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The ingredients of Serbia

To learn what the Serbs eat, let’s begin with the basics, that is by taking a look at what we like best — the open-air markets. Their central part is usually dominated by stalls piled with vegetables and fruit. Around, often inside pavillons, there are cheese, bread and meat shops. There even may be a fishmonger’s, where fried sardines wrapped in a paper cone can be bought for pennies. The Serbian cuisine could not exists without cheese. Salty, white or yellowish, young or old, this … Read more The ingredients of Serbia

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With and against the flow

From our previous trip to Croatia, some ten years ago, we remember that people were genuinely friendly and everything cost tri kuna. Although nowadays tri kuna will only buy you a bag of salt, people still greet strangers with a smile. Now we’re zipping along the Drava river, through the northern, pancake-flat part of the country. First the Drava presents itself in the form of the Dravsko Jezero dam. Later, as it meanders further, we approach it several times. The time for a final goodbye comes around Osijek. There, we take a … Read more With and against the flow

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